When More Oil Isn't the Answer

Experiencing dry hair? It must need oil, right? Maybe, or at least that's what most of us have been taught. It's instinctual: when our textured hair is dry, we reach for our beloved hair oils, as much oil as it takes to get it to feel "hydrated." Oils are taking over the internet, and I bet you've had a bottle of Jamaican black castor oil on your bathroom counter at some point, because it seemed like the hair oil of choice, promising us long, "good" hair and moisture. Well, that's not always the case. If your kid's hair still feels dry after all that oiling, the oil may actually be the problem.

Oil doesn't moisturize. Water does.

Oils do not moisturize hair; water does. Oils seal the hair and slow down moisture loss, but moisturize? No. So, adding all that oil to your kid's hair to achieve ultimate moisture? Unlikely. The oil is just sitting there, coating the hair shaft and preventing future water absorption (we thank God for clarifying shampoo). This is especially an issue for those of us with low porosity hair.

Not all oils are the same

Some oils are heavy and just sit on top of the hair. Other oils are lighter and absorb better. That's why the same oil can work well for one head of hair and not for another, leaving the hair coated and dull-looking.

• Heavier oils, like castor, olive and raw coconut oil, are great for sealing ends and edges. A little goes a long way.
• Lighter oils, like jojoba, grapeseed and argan, are better for hair that has a hard time absorbing oil, like low porosity hair.

Castor oil is one of the heaviest oils out there, and that's why everyone loves to use it for sealing. It's my personal favorite, and while it's not the villain, it's not the answer for moisture. It's the answer for sealing.

What about hair growth?

A lot of us use oils as hair growth treatments (I'm definitely one of them), castor oil in particular. It's become the bread and butter of hair growth serums. However, there really isn't a whole lot of research to support its use. A 2026 dermatology review noted evidence that castor oil helped with hair shine and potentially hair loss, but said more clinical research was needed to make definitive conclusions (Cureus). We'd use it as care, not a cure.

How we'd use it

• Water first, always. Use a leave-in or damp hair as a base, then seal in the moisture with oil. (Our three-step guide walks through the order.)
• Use heavy oils sparingly, just on ends, edges and/or scalp, not all over the hair.
• Try a lighter oil for low porosity hair, like jojoba or grapeseed, if a heavier oil feels like too much.
• If hair feels coated or dull, it may be buildup, not dryness. You can always do a clarifying wash.

The takeaway

If your kid's hair still feels dry, it's probably not the amount of oil you're using. It's about enough water, a little bit of oil to seal it all in, and the right kind of oil for your kid's hair. Whatever oil you decide to use, it should be the finishing touch.

Further reading: Use of Castor Oil in Dermatology: A Narrative Review (Cureus, 2026) · Softer Hair All Week, in Three Steps