A Hair Detox for Styles That Actually Last

Twist-out not lasting like it used to? Braids looking fuzzy (we've all seen those braids)? Feeling like your kid's hair is sealed in a coat even after wash day? Products layering on top of your kid's hair instead of absorbing? If any of this resonates, it may not be your styling choice or products' fault. It could be everything that's built up on your kid's hair.

Where the idea comes from

The #30DayHairDetox was created by licensed hairstylists Aeleise and Ayesha of Black Girl Curls (Black Curl Magic). The concept? 30 days of no heavy butters or oils, proper cleansing, and just water and water-based products to moisturize your hair. They say it's not a challenge, but more of a reset of the mindset when it comes to natural hair care.

I personally like that framing. Natural hair care has been getting really complicated lately, almost defeating the whole idea of "natural." There's always a new cream, a new butter, a new method, a new oil, and frankly, I'm tired. Less is always more when it comes to hair care.

What buildup does

It's a fact: a lot of popular hair products contain silicones, mineral oil and heavy butters. Initially, they have your hair feeling nice for a couple of days, but they leave a layer on the hair that regular shampoo can't fully remove (Byrdie). This layer then prevents water from penetrating the hair, which is why your hair can feel coated and dry all at the same time.

Signs it might be buildup:

• Styles don't hold like they used to
• Hair looking dull, waxy, crunchy, or all of the above
• Products layering or sitting on top of hair instead of absorbing
• Scalp feeling itchy or flaky between wash days

The detox, simplified

1. Start clean. Deep clean with a clarifying shampoo, which cleans better than a moisturizing one (NBC News Select).
2. Condition and detangle. Be careful to detangle gently from ends to roots.
3. Skip the heavy stuff. For the detox, don't use any raw shea butter, raw coconut oil, castor oil or silicones.
4. Style with water-based products. Use more where hair needs it, less where it doesn't.
5. Dry gently. A hooded dryer on low, a diffuser, or air drying.
6. Protect it at night. A satin bonnet or durag helps a style last. The goal is 7 to 10 days between washes.

Do kids need the full 30 days?

Probably not. A single clarifying wash combined with a couple of weeks of water-based styling products should be plenty to determine if buildup was indeed the culprit. If your styles start lasting longer and your kid's hair starts feeling softer, you have your answer. You can always add oils and butters back in, just in moderation.

The takeaway

It's easy to reach for a new styling product when your styles stop lasting as long. Sometimes, you need to take away a couple of things to see what a good clean start and light approach can do for your kid's hair.

Further reading: Black Curl Magic on the #30DayHairDetox · Byrdie on product buildup